PUNE, July 1, 2013: The annual pilgrimage to Pandharpur started from Dehu on Saturday with lakhs of devotees (called warkaris) converging on the temple town of Dehu as early as Friday evening and continuing to pour in till Saturday afternoon.

As per tradition, the palkhi carrying the padukas of Sant Tukaram started from Deul wada, the main sanctum, and moved to the Inamdar wada located nearby amidst resonating chants of 'Dnyanba Tukaram' and 'Vitthal Vitthal Jai Hari Vitthal'. After a night's rest, the palkhi will start on the 450 km-long journey to Pandharpur around 10 on Sunday morning. Warkaris, mostly part of respective dindis, have come to Dehu from as far as Solapur, Marathwada region, Karnataka and bordering villages of Andhra Pradesh. They may speak different languages or different dialects of Marathi which are difficult to comprehend, but at heart there is just one thought: Complete surrender to the Almighty, the Panduranga!

Kuthoba, a pilgrim from Kadus village in Parner taluka in Ahmednagar, is 77 and still restless. "I want to be at the Lord's feet. That's my final destination," said the septuagenarian who has lost count of the number of waris (journey on foot starting from Dehu/Alandi and culminating at Pandharpur) he has made in as many years.

Dadoji Sathe, aged over 60, vaguely remembers his first wari as a kid. "I had accompanied my father then. I had got lost near Loni and my father had given me a good scolding when he found me. Since then I have been disciplined and I never stray away from my dindi," said Sathe with a chuckle. When asked if his children have ever accompanied him to a wari, Sathe said, "They don't get the time. But I don't mind. My elder son works in a factory at Chakan and the younger son is a sand contractor. It's after all, a matter of faith. If you can't chant the holy name of Panduranga in your heart, its better you don't walk such a long distance at all. It is a waste of time."

The recent development works carried out in the village with a funding of about Rs 350 crore received from the state government has had its effect. Roads have been broadened and drainage lines are now closed. Over 347 houses were either demolished or partially demolished to make way for better amenities for the wari. "Devotees stand to benefit in the short-term while villagers will reap the advantages all through the year," said tehsildar Kiran Kakde.

On the face of it, Dehu is like any other religious place which sees a huge inflow of devotees during festivals. But a closer look shows the positive and radiating impact the warkari culture and Bhagwad Dharma has had on the way the whole event is conducted, which the pundits say, has been going on for over 700 years now. There is no pushing and kicking; there is no littering on the roads; locals treat pilgrims with respect and compassion and commercialization is still an alien word and an alien concept here.

The village has a population of a few thousand people. However, during the two waris -- the present Ashadi wari and the other Kartiki -- the number swells to over 6 lakh. Despite such a heavy influx of people, a lodge or a hotel is hard to be found here. "There is no need for it. The dharamashala of Sant Tukaram Maharaj Sansthan takes care of warkaris' stay while the numerous anna chhatras feed devotees all day round," said Subodh Vitthal More, who is a member of the family which represents the 10th generation of Tukaram.

The Dnyaneshwar Maharaj palkhi will start from Alandi on Sunday. Both the palkhis will reach Pune city on Monday and after a brief stay will proceed on the arduous journey to Pandharpur, the final destination.

Source: The Hindu, DT. June 30, 2013.