Situated at an altitude of 3,680m (12,100 ft) and located in Rudraprayag district of Uttarakhand, Tungnath — literal meaning Lord of the Peaks — is said to be the highest Hindu temple in India dedicated to Lord Shiva.

One of the ‘Panch Kedars’ (five seats), Tungnath has a rich history seeped in myth and legend and is second in pecking order religiously, Kedarnath said to be the holiest Kedar. Believed to be over 1,000 years old, it was built by the Pandavas as penance to Lord Shiva, who was displeased with them for slaying their own kin during the Mahabharata war. Lord Ram is also believed to have meditated at the nearby Chandrashila peak as also Ravana.

Apart from its intense religious significance, it is also a popular trekking destination for tourists. The walk till the temple for an averagely fit person takes about three hours and is fairly easygoing, although a little steep at places. The wide wellbuilt stone path is peppered with little dhabas along the way providing a range of refreshments that will keep one going. One can also chat with weary fellow travellers who are only too eager to provide information, wanted or unwanted, regarding the temple and its surrounding areas. Otherwise, the stunning landscape itself is enough to keep one going as is the company of an odd friendly sheepdog who’ll attach itself to you in return for a little food. The rhododendrons, in bloom in March, line the alpine meadows creating a dazzling display in all possible shades of red.

On reaching the temple one should be prepared to encounter a personality you are unlikely to meet anywhere else, Baba Kidikbum. Smoking a chillum leisurely around the temple compound the Baba greeted us with a smile saying that we must have heard of him on our way up. Indeed, we had. He asked us if we were planning to trek further uphill to Chandrashila peak to which we said we were doubtful due to the dark storm clouds gathering overhead. But he told us not to worry, for not a drop of rain would fall till we were safely back. He told us to meet him again on our way back from the peak.

The walk up to Chandrashila took another hour and the view was absolutely breathtaking. Situated at the summit which is at an altitude of 4000m (13,200ft) was a tiny temple dedicated to Ganga. On a clear day one gets an unparalleled panoramic view of the Himalayas and famous peaks such as Nandadevi, Trisul, Chaukhamba and Kedar Peak. This is also a famous spot from where a stunning Himalayan sunrise can be witnessed. True to the words of the Baba, whom we met again on our way down, it did not rain. Baba Kidikbum, an ardent devotee of Lord Shiva, lived in a cave near Tungnath. He invited us to his little abode and regaled us with the legends surrounding the temple and of his fame which apparently spread far and wide amongst foreigners as well as Indians. We were blessed and scolded alternately depending on the mercurial Baba’s mood. It was an experience quite unlike ever before. Eventually with the clouds looking more menacing, it was time to head back and we were again reminded that it would not rain till we were back in our car and true to his word it did not. A far more accurate reading by the Baba than we have ever seen on any weather channel so far.

Once safely back in our car, the tired brain thought that this day definitely gave new meaning to the saying ‘all in a day’s work’. For trekking enthusiasts there are various places nearby worth exploring such as Deoria Taal (lake) at an altitude of 2387 m (7800 ft.) Other exciting destinations are the Kedarnath wildlife sanctuary, which is home to the endangered musk deer species and the Akash Ganga Waterfalls.

Source: Hindustan Times, DT. June 4, 2013.